Monday, December 29, 2014

One Shop I Love: By dé Bo in Uzes


Spend any time with expats in France and before too long someone will start whining (or whinging as my English friends like to say) about how poorly they were recently treated by a shop keeper, restaurateur, bank, utility company, parking guy or what have you.  

My most recent gripe was how my bank here in St. Remy--a branch of one of three biggest banks in France--no longer takes or gives out money in the afternoon.  No cash in, no cash out, any afternoon.

Before that, I was grumbling about my phone/internet provider, who told me--after three of their modem boxes crashed within two weeks--to find another company if I didn't like their service. Oh, and I should stop breaking their modem boxes. Because if this one stopped working, they wouldn't give me another. (Anyone who has ever switched phone companies in France knows that's not an option any sane person would pursue.)

Every expat has a tale--or 20--of woe. One of my favorites: up in Paris, blogger David Lebovitz writes about leaving his apartment more than once only to find a ''Sorry you weren't home when we tried to deliver your package!" sticker on the front door.

And whatever you do, don't ever ask an expat about the process of getting a French resident card, long-stay visa or carte de sejour. By the time the teller gets round to the end of the story--cataloging for you every time-wasting hassle and indignity he/she suffered along the way--you'll have decided that getting the visa itself couldn't be anywhere near as painful as listening to the story is. Trust me on this one: Do. Not. Ask.

But come to think of it, my French friends do this too...meaning, complain about customer service. Not to go down that road but it does sometimes seem that businesses here (what with lunchtime closings, Sunday closings, seasonal hours, bank holidays, no-return policies, etc.) operate more for the convenience of owners and employees than customers. 

So it's always a nice surprise to have an experience that goes the total opposite way... meaning, you get treated exactly how you'd like to be treated. So here's a shout out to my new favorite clothes shop and its charming owner, who completely won me over with her warmth and cool attitude before I even had a look at her beautiful clothes.

Back in July, my friend Steph gave me a very-generous birthday gift: a 200€ gift certificate from a St. Remy boutique called By dé Bo. I noted the December expiration date, which of course I had to whinge about just a bit: I only had five months to use it? And what does 12/14 mean? Does that mean Dec 1? December 31? And how lame is it to make a gift certificate by simply scribbling on the back of your business card? Never mind--I was thrilled with the gift and taped it to my desk so I wouldn't lose it or forget.

So with that vague December deadline looming, I popped into town a month ago hoping to get a coat. Only to find that, after 15 years in business, the shop had closed and another had taken its place. But then I noticed that the gift certificate said "St. Remy and Uzes." So maybe all was not lost...maybe, just maybe, the other By dé Bo lived on! So the next morning, I called. Yes they were still in business. Yes they were open on Saturday. And so I drove an hour to the pretty town of Uzes, fully prepared to be told ''sorry, that gift card was good in St. Remy only'' or that the ownership had changed or that the gift card was fake or the manager's dog was sick so she stayed home...or something. 

Instead, the British owner Deborah Tunney couldn't have been sweeter.  Of course she would accept the gift card, she said. And when I didn't find a coat that fit or anything else that grabbed me, she--wait for it--offered to extend the deadline. Extend the deadline! In France! I thought I was hallucinating! And just as I was going to take her up on it and leave empty handed, Deb started bringing me the most beautiful tops to try--soft colors, elegant fabrics--and before too long I had found the sweater of all sweaters...and a new favorite store. 

Deborah's clothes (and shoes, boots and handbags too) are beautifully made and a bit edgy. She carries 40 or so different labels at a time, and another 40 brands of accessories and shoes. She stocks European designers only, with a focus--always--on high-quality fabrics. "I love quirky," she says, "pretty niche and charismatic stuff. The more unknown and beautiful it is, the more it appeals to me. I just love the idea that no one else has picked a new label up and I found it! So you can find established designers like Sarah Pacini sitting along side a new guy that no one knows like A.B. (Italian from Rome in stunning fabrics) which just happens to go with a German knitwear collection like Hannes Roether and a crazy Italian like Maliparmi… and then a bag from Campomaggi or M0851. Basically it's about breaking the rules and buying everything that catches my eye...things that shouldn't really all be in the same shop…but it works! And I pick up five or six new labels each season so there's always a new toy to play with!" 

So there you have it: a French customer-service story that ends with a happy customer. Ladies, next time you're in Uzes, do pop in; Saturday is a great day because that's when Uzes has its big (and wonderful) weekly market. Deb knows what will work for your coloring and body type...and will do her very best to hook you up with something fantastic.  And as your reward for reading all the way to the end here, there's this: the shop will be having "a mega Saturday bash" on January 3rd. "It's total havoc!" Deb reports, "with pretty much everything at 50%, which puts everyone in great spirits to start the New Year." 

By dé Bo
22, rue Jacques d'Uzès
30700 Uzes, France
04 66 03 43 99
bydebo@me.com 
Open: 9.30 am to 1 pm and 2 pm to 7 pm, Tuesday to Friday. Open all day on Saturday. From April to September, open on Mondays as well.

Tuesday, December 16, 2014

Just Opened: Two New French Ski Hotels


Club Med Val Thorens

Michelin two-star chef Edouard Loubet is creating dinner menus at the new Club Med Val Thorens (two photos above) which opened this weekend (December 14). Loubet was born in Val Thorens and is chef/owner of the Bastide de Capelongue and the Moulin de Lourmarin in the Luberon region of Provence. The new Club Med, at 2300 meters, boasts “doorstep access” to the largest ski domaine in the world, the “Three Valleys,” which offers 600 kilometers of powdery slopes along with paragliding, mountain biking on ice and tobogganing. The new Club Med has 384 rooms, three dining areas, an indoor climbing wall and Carita spa. Doing the day-to-day cooking in the fine-dining Epicurious restaurant is resort exec chef Thierry Van Rillaer, who came from Club Med La Plantation d’Albion, part of Club Med’s exclusive Villas & Chalets collection. (Two are open; a third will launch in the Maldives in February.) The “Chef de Village” (Club Med’s title for GM) is Daniel Guimaraes, who was at Club Med Chamonix last winter season. The advantage of an all-inclusive Club Med stay is that ski passes and lessons are included with your accommodations, along with meals, drinks, and entertainment. The new Club Med will finish its first season in May, 2015. Rates begin at $1332/€1330 per adult per week, all inclusive. For more info on the hotel, click here in English or here in French. For info on Val Thorens, click here.

Hotel des Dromonts












Maisons et Hotels Sibuet, which operates ten elegant villa and hotel properties around France, launched their newest hotel this weekend as well. Located in Avoriaz in the Haute Savoie, the four-star Hôtel des Dromonts (two photos above) is just under two hours from Annecy and three hours from Lyon, within the family-oriented Portes du Soleil ski area (296 ski runs, 11 snowparks, 11 bordercross runs). Perched at 1800 meters, it's an area known for sustainable development, one that Lonely Planet recently called "one of the finest ski resorts in France." The hotel first opened in 1966, with panoramic views and innovative cedar-shingle siding which gave it its signature pinecone shape. Since 1973, it's been host to the Avoriaz Fantasy Film Festival: Steven Spielberg, David Cronenberg, Brian de Palma, David Lynch, Luc Besson and other luminaries have been here to screen their work. When Jocelyne Sibuet and her team took over, everything was done to keep the hotel's original spirit; look for warm, 60s-inspired decor, custom fabrics and a focus on natural, local materials such as slate mined from a quarry in neighboring Morzine. The hotel has 28 rooms and six suites. For dining, there's Les Enfants Terribles Up for intimate dinners and classic cuisine. For more festive meals or lunch close to the slopes, there's Les Enfants Terribles Down, set around a famous bar and serving small plates, burgers, fondue and raclette. Avoriaz is completely carless and the hotel is accessed by a four-minute cable car ride. It will stay open until late April. Rooms range from 156€ to 516 €, suites from 506 to 786 €. For more info on Dromonts, click here. For info on Avoriaz, click here.

Tuesday, December 2, 2014

Win A Sensational Week in Provence!


I first heard about 
Passports with Purpose at a travel-blogging conference a few years ago in Spain. I was so inspired by co-founder Beth Whitman’s talk that I signed on immediately to help. My contribution to the fundraising effort that year (2012) was donating a week's vacation in Provence...and the response was terrific.
 The winner said she and her friend loved every single minute of it: every experience, every meal, every tour, every everything. 

This year I decided to participate again and I set out to top myself, pulling together another glorious week in Provence...but one that's even-more delicious, jam-packed, pampering and luxe than the last. I have to admit I may have gone a little bit overboard, which you'll see as you read on.

The package includes a week in a lovely villa, a rental car, great restaurant meals, private guided tours, cooking classes, a truffle hunt and much more. And to enter to win it, all you have to do is donate $10 to a great cause. I decided to do this just a week ago and was able to pull it together quickly thanks to the amazing generosity of a bunch of super-cool people I know here in Provence.

First let me tell you a bit about Passports with Purpose (PWP), a grass-roots charity initiative founded in 2008, as a way to help folks in need and build community in the travel industry. To see a short video about the program, click here.

Each year, the organizers receive scores of charity applications and after doing all the necessary diligence, choose just one to support. Then they set out a specific goal and call upon travel bloggers, sponsors and other industry pros for help.

In their first year, PWP raised $7,400 for Heifer International. The  next year they raised $30,000 to build a school in Cambodia. Each year they've lifted the bar, building wells in Haiti, schools in Mali, libraries in Zambia and a entire new village in India. The last time I participated, 200 of us travel bloggers and 1,242 individual donors raised $110,000 for Water.org through the donation of 143 prizes.


This year, the beneficiary is Sustainable Harvest International (SHI), which is combating malnutrition by teaching families in Belize, Honduras, Nicaragua and Panama how to plant organic vegetable gardens and fruit trees...and build fishponds and chicken coops....and more.  To date SHI has helped more than 2,500 families grow healthful food and generate income to meet other basic needs. 

So here’s how it works. Participating bloggers round up prizes--items or experiences--and write about them. So at the same time you’re reading this, people all over the world are reading about other prizes on their favorite travel blogs. A list of this year's participating bloggers (82 at last count) is here.

For each $10 donation you make, you get one shot at the prize of your choice. You can enter as many times as you wish, for as many prizes as you like—but always in $10 increments. If you want to win this trip to Provence, for example, you could donate $100 and get ten tries. If you're already here in France, you should still enter...to win for 
your family, your friends or as a getaway for yourself. Winners will be chosen randomly and notified December 21st. Enter early and enter often!

And Here's What You Get

When you arrive in Provence (probably at the Avignon TGV Train Station or Marignane Airport, Marseille), my friends at Auto Europe will hook you up with a free seven-day rental on a compact, manual-transmission car, with unlimited kilometers, taxes and insurance (liability and fire). How great is that? Then just pop your stuff in the back and head for St. Remy where...

You'll stay for a week in a totally loaded, super-comfy villa at 
Provence Paradise, a charming, historic hamlet of fully renovated houses dating to the 17th century. Owner William Moore, a most- gracious host, says: "Whenever you want to come, we’ll be delighted to share our paradise with you! And don’t shy away from the winter months. These houses are lovely when the weather cools; each has at least two working fireplaces and a full supply of red wine!" William will also throw in free admission to the Pont du Gard (a 2000-year-old Roman aqueduct), passes for horseback riding and more. The day you arrive, you'll find a homemade dinner awaiting you: main course, salad, bread, dessert and wine. Plus a fridge stocked with goodies for breakfast. 

The accomodations are for two people, to be used between Jan 1, 2015 and April 1, 2015....or from October 1, 2015 to April 15, 2016 (with the exception of Christmas and New Years weeks). If you choose to come with more than two people--or stay longer than a week--William will work up a nice price. Read more about Provence Paradise in my recent story here.

But Man Does Not Live By Bed Alone...


Even though your villa has a full kitchen, you’ll want to try the famous sun-drenched cuisine for which the region is known. And since I only want you to have the very best— naturellement!--I’ve asked a handful of my favorite restaurants to donate gift certificates. There are five fantastic meals ready and waiting for you: 

*The Michelin-two star restaurant L’Oustau de Baumaniere, located in a gorgeous five-star Relais & Chateaux hotel nestled in the valley at the foot of Les Baux de Provence, has donated a three-course lunch for two, which usually costs 99€ per person. Baumanière is a mecca for foodies and this is a meal you’ll long remember. Chef/owner Jean-André Charial made this same donation two years ago and I'm thrilled that he'll be welcoming this year's winner as well. 

*Mas du Capoun, 15 minutes from St. Remy, is a cooly elegant cream-and-grey restaurant located in an 18thcentury farmhouse and barn. The food is fresh, creative and refined; the welcome is warm and the prices surprisingly low.  "We’re a family working together,’’ says owner Michèle Roumain, who is fluent in French, English and Flemish. "And we try hard to make the good price.’" As a result, Mas du Capoun is wildly popular and always full...but I got you a prime table...and 100€ to spend as you wish.  When I asked Michèle and her husband Michaël, the chef, to donate again this year, Michaël replied yes immediately, saying:  ''We don't need the publicity but we do need to try to help the world." Remember that old Sara Lee slogan? Well nobody doesn't love Mas Capoun.

*In a real-estate coup that was nothing short of miraculous, Ralph Hüsgen and his wife Margot Stängle, an architect, were able combine two small old village houses with one elegant hotel particulier, transforming them into a modern, light-filled space while keeping historic detailing intact. They named it the Hotel d'Almeran, after the famous St. Remy family who, 400 years ago, built the grandest of the three. While the seven guest suites and pool won’t open until March, the restaurant and wine bar have been up and running since August...and they've already been inducted into the chic Design Hotels group. Ralph describes the restaurant as "gastronomic in quality, bistro in ambiance.” Back in the tiny kitchen, chef Benoit Fauci--who earned a Michelin star at Les Chenes Verts in the Var--is toiling away, crafting modern Mediterranean cuisine. When you come, chances are you'll find the wide front doors thrown open...and a flock of the area's most-finicky foodies tucking into pretty plates. Ralph is giving you a three-course lunch menu for two, with wines from his 350-label cellar.....a 120 value. 

*Patrick and Celine Fischnaller (owners of the Michelin one-star restaurant Le Vivier in Isle sur la Sorgue) are, once again, offering an amazing 140€ food-and-wine credit for you to spend at lunch or dinner. L’Isle sur la Sorgue is a beautifully historic town, an antiques center for all of Europe...with old water wheels in the Sorgue River and a divine Sunday morning market. So after you've picked the market clean, you have a lovely, leisurely lunch to look forward to. Or, do more siteseeing in the region and then come back for dinner.  At Le Vivier, large windows provide great river views and the tables are generously spaced, a nice treat after you've been battling the market crowds. Generosity, it seems, is the Le Vivier philosophy: portions are large, ingredients top rate, sauces plentiful, linens luxe. Exec chef Ludovic Dziewulski sources direct from local farms and purveyors, coaxing maximum flavor from each ingredient and making foodies swoon.  I really love this restaurant and I know that you will too. (For more info, see my story about Le Vivier here.) 


*The big market in St. Remy is Wednesday morning and Cafe de la Place is perfect for lunch right after. It's my favorite village hangout, filled with expats, locals and tourists. Owner Christelle Sarrazin and her team are super friendly, which sets a laid-back and festive tone, and if you speak not a word of French you'll find the servers exceedingly kind. The decor is simple and flea-market funky...and then more elegant in the evening when the chandeliers are lit. Christelle's husband Hervé, the chef, offers a full menu plus daily specials, and they are sweetly giving us 50€ to use at lunch or dinner. La Place ticks all my boxes for the perfect local cafe: long hours (7 am to after midnite); dining inside, outside and in the bar; WiFi throughout; couches and magazines in the back; a big TV for sporting events; sunshine on the terrace until late in the day; umbrellas when it's hot outside and heaters when it's not. Plus comforting food with ethnic/global touches...and the best iced latte in town. 


Okay, that’s your restaurants sorted out. Now, how to make the most of your precious days?


*No visit to Provence is complete without some serious sampling of our world-famous wines. So I’ve arranged a splendid half-day of vineyard touring and tasting around the legendary Châteauneuf-du-Pape for you. Your host will be the American sommelier and Rhône wine expert Kelly McAuliffe, one of the area’s best-loved guides. Even if you’re a total beginner, you’ll love your day out with Kelly...you’ll see some gorgeous scenery...and you’ll learn a ton. And since you're not driving, you can sip to your heart's content.

*Another day, you'll explore St. Remy with Philippe Goninet, president of our Tourist Office and an extremely knowledgeable guide. First, you'll ramble through the historic city center, with stops at Van Gogh sites, artisan food producers, artists’ studios,  the home of the famous Nostradamus, our beautiful church with its relics from the 14th century and 5000-pipe organ… and much more. After lunch, Philippe will tour you through Glanum (an excavated Greek/Roman village) and next door, the Clinique St. Paul (the serene cloister/hospital where Van Gogh spent a year and painted 150 canvasses). If time and energy allow, you might pop in at the Calanquet olive mill, where 5th-generation brother-and-sister farmers tend 5,000 trees and offer tastings of homemade tapenades, confitures, olive treats and more. Or, drop in at our favorite fromagerie, to play with the adorable goats and taste the award-winning chevre. Or zip over the Alpilles Mountains to visit the medieval, hilltop Les Baux. 

* Of course you'll want to spend a day in Aix and I've arranged for the perfect host!  Delana Nelsen, a transplated Minnesotan, lives in the heart of the old city and gives terrific three-hour walking tours. Depending on the day, these might include one of Aix’s famous markets, the beautiful old homes lining Cours Mirabeau, the Place de Marie with its 16th-century bell tower and Hall of Grains, the quirky Cathedral de Saint Sauveur and the sites of Aix’s most famous son, Paul Cezanne. Then over coffee in her favorite cafe, Delana will help you choose the best restaurant for lunch or dinner and send you on your way. 

*Next up is Avignon, the historic city on the Rhone, where guide Marlene Boyer has arranged another terrific tour for you. She'll take you all around the city's historical center so you can see the Palais des Papes, the St. Benezet Bridge, churches, gardens, shopping streets and more.  Then she'll treat you to lunch in the loud and colorful Les Halles covered food market, where you'll tuck into platters of delicious Provence specialties (olives, tapenades, local cheeses, cold cuts, oysters, bread, etc.) from the various market vendors. Marlene's tour company is #1 on Trip Advisor in the Avignon activities category...and I'm so delighted with her donation!

Wait Up, I'm Nowhere Near Done!

*If you come to Provence during winter truffle season (November 15 to March 15), Lisa and Johann Pepin of Les Pastras insist that you to come for a truffle hunt, followed by an indulgent tasting of truffle canapés with Champagne from the family's boutique winery.  You'll see the property's olive groves, vineyards and bee hives...learn how truffle dogs are trained...learn how to clean, store and cook with truffles...and much more. 

*Sharon deRham and Jane Satow are two of my best gal pals and two of my favorite guides. Both love to tour in multiple regions, depending on what their clients want to see and do. So once we start fleshing out your schedule, we'll know better where they should take you:  for a fabulous day in the Luberon...or a walking tour of Arles...or a visit to Vaison la Romaine...or a taste of the truffle market at Richerenches...or an afternoon of shopping...or a village market tour...or Roman sites...or wineries...or one from every column! When I asked these two for donations, both said "Whatever you need, I'll do!" Are my peeps the best or what?

*Ever come home from a vacation disappointed with your photos? We all have.  So professional photographer Joanna MacLennan has offered to spend a half or full day touring and shooting with  you, giving you lots of terrific tips and tricks along the way. Joanna will also photograph you and your travel companion and then send you a selection of high-resolution jpegs, either on a CD or for download via WeTransfer. So you get a private tour, a photo safari and a portrait session all in one.

Some Hiking and Biking and a Cooking Class Too...

*Feeling sportif? My favorite hiking guide Lucy Bakr will lead you on a glorious half-day randonée, in and around the Alpilles Mountains just south of St. Remy. Depending on the time of year and your stamina, she'll pick the perfect paths and even provide the coffee and nibbles. Beginners welcome! 

*Electric bikes (vélos électriques) are great fun...a wonderful way to explore the countryside.  After a little time to acclimate you'll quickly be off and running, at a pace that tops out around 40 km per hour.  It’s a wonderful sensation: you pedal as usual and then the motor kicks in and gives you a little extra push. Then a little more pedaling…and another push. The bikes are like a cross between a traditional bike and a moped or scooter…and they’re a perfect way to meander winding roads and gentle hills without major effort. At Sun-E-Bike in St. Remy, owner Maxime Vial will set you up with everything you need for a great day out: top-of-the-line e-bikes, helmets, suggested routes and even an extra battery if he thinks you'll need one.  (For more about e-biking in Provence, click here.)

*Once you've tried the food in Provence, you're going to want to make it a home. And I have the perfect person to teach you.  At Le Mas de Lilou, her beautifully restored 19th-century farmhouse B&B 15 minutes west of St. Remy, Catherine Burtonboy offers a wide range of foodie experiences including cooking and baking classes, table d’hôte dinners and more. Catherine will welcome you for an afternoon cooking class and then send you home with everything you've cooked, perfectly packaged, to enjoy for dinner that evening.

And Finally...

* Waiting for you upon arrival you'll find a big box of chocolates from Joël Durand, who handcrafts irresistible sweets infused with the herb, fruit and flower flavors of his beloved South of France. Pick any one of 32 flavors that comprise his Alphabet des Saveurs and bite gently through the coating: you’ll find a rich, velvety truffle-type ganache, shot through with the essence of Earl Grey or rosemary or cocoa bean or jasmine. Each luscious little square is dusted with a chocolate letter, a hint at what’s inside: L for lavender, M for fresh mint, T for tiramisu. Joël will be putting together a box for you filled with all his most-popular flavors. 

*No one leaves Provence without souvenirs...and I’ve got that covered as well. You’ll receive two boxes of four engraved, elegantly packaged soaps, from Comme un Murmure. They’re made near St. Remy and customized with your choice of monogram, initials or name. The scents are delicious and the soaps are so pretty you’ll find it hard to actually use them.

*Now here's a gift from me. My company Provence Post Travel (ok, that means...me) will help you pull it all together, schedule the week to fit in as much as possible, make your dinner reservations, answer all your questions. That’s what I do for my travel-planning clients and it'll be great fun to do it for you as well.

But You Can't Win if You Don't Play...

Ok so here’s what you have to do win the whole shebang: just click HERE. Then put the amount you want to donate into the little box. Remember, the more you give, the more chances you have to win. And make sure to peruse all the other great prizes HERE...and enter to win those as well! Entries will be accepted only until December 17th so make sure you do it soon. Anyone can enter, anywhere in the world.

And now a major merci to everyone who helped me pull together this prize. Thanks to you, someone is going to have an amazing vacation in Provence and some very needy kids and their families will eat better for years because of you. 


For more info on PWP, check out their website here or follow them on Facebook and Twitter

For more on Sustainable Harvest, see their website and follow them on Twitter.

Ok everybody, start clicking! And Bonne Chance!

Monday, November 24, 2014

My New Favorite Travel Companion



If you travel internationally, you know what a hassle it can be to get online without racking up huge roaming charges. Lots of people buy a local SIM card but they're not always available and many devices don't take them. Plus, a new SIM means a new phone number...more hassle!

Many of my travel-planning clients ask about connectivity for their upcoming trips to France...and I'd been wondering for a while about those mobile hotspots that you can rent for travel. They create a WiFi signal wherever you are, for when there's no WiFi and you don't want to use your own 3G or 4G. Such as? In a car, on a bus or train, in a rental house, on the street or in any shop or restaurant without WiFi. Or, where the WiFi is so slow it makes you nuts.

When my client Joyce Rothenberg--a tour operator who brings groups to France--used one on her recent trip and told me it was fantastic, I knew I wanted to give it a try. So I got myself one from Travel WiFi...and to get it back they'll have to pry it from my clenched little fists. I love this thing!

Prices depend on the length of your trip, starting at 6€ per day (for 30 days). A seven-day rental is 48€; a three-day rental is 30€.  Readers of Provence Post will get a 10% discount by using the link below. 

If you're thinking oh no, not another gadget with cords and adapters and complicated instructions...this isn't like that at all. In fact the company clearly set out to make the process as easy and pleasant as possible. Hey, your little hotspot arrives in a small flat box with a cookie in it. How many companies send you shortbread just for fun?

The device itself is tiny--smaller than a deck of cards--and the instructions are super easy. Basically, you use the little cord to charge it as needed...then input the password that appears conveniently on the back of the device...and off you go, browsing the web, downloading emails, sending photos and more, all at 4G speed. (If 4G is unavailable in your area, you'll get 3G or 3G+.) If you know where you're going in France, you can check the coverage map here.

Most clients order their hotspot once they know their travel dates...and have it sent to wherever they're staying in France: hotel, hostel, private home, rental. (For the time being, the company only ships to France.) Or, you can reserve one and pick it up at Travel Wifi's office in Paris....where, the website says, you'll be offered a cup of coffee and lots of Paris travel tips! If your rental starts on a weekend when the office is closed, they'll find a way for you to get it. 

When you're done, you pop it into the box and into the pre-paid envelope and send it back.

Travel WiFi's devices work with laptops, tablets and smartphones. They're totally wireless: toss it in your purse or backpack, leave it on the dashboard, keep it in your pocket. Use is totally unlimited: you can suck up as much data as your heart desires with no hidden fees or small print or exceptions. And you can share your connection with up to nine other devices at the same time. Yep, the whole family can be online at once. Two families!

Considering that data access while roaming can cost up to 10€ per MB depending on the country and plan, the daily rental price really seems like nothing. Think of the time we've all spent on the road, searching for a good WiFi signal...time that could be spent doing just about anything else. And given that you're not changing your SIM, your phone number stays the same...another big bonus, in my book.

It is possible to buy (rather than rent) personal hotspots, for roughly 100€ to 200€. But then you'll need a different SIM card and subscription for every country you visit. For most travelers, a short rental is a far better option. I assume these devices are now available for rental all over the world, but the Travel WiFi one works only in France; beyond that you're on your own.

There are quite a few companies that now offer the same type of device but I had a super positive experience with Travel WiFi...so I'm really happy to recommend it to anyone coming to France. And because I know how y'all love a deal, I asked company co-founder Jonathan Justman to give you a 10% discount and of course he said ''bien sur!'' So be sure to book by clicking here or you won't get the discount.  You're welcome!

Questions: contact@travel-wifi.com, tel +33 (0)1 76 44 00 30.

Tuesday, November 18, 2014

Millévin Wine Festival Thursday in Avignon


Everybody grab your breathalyzer! It's time once again for Millévin, the annual festival in Avignon celebrating the primeur (early or new) wines and other Côtes du Rhône vintages. Primeur, in this case, refers to wines sold in the year the grapes are harvested. The idea is similar to the Beaujolais Nouveau, with the wines officially released the third Thursday in November. 

This year, Millévin (Thursday, November 20) features both morning and evening events where you can taste and purchase regional wines, gourmet food chalets, a winemakers' parade and special menus in participating restaurants. The event is designed for consumers, the trade and all other "adeptes de la bonne humeur."

Festivities begin at with preview tastings of the Côtes du Rhône Primeurs (12 wineries) in the Les Halles market from 10 am to 1 pm. Then, on the Place de l’Horloge (6 to 9 pm; 5€ per person for a glass, five tasting tickets and a breathalyzer), local wine co-ops and winemakers will be offerings tastes and bottles for sale, of both new wines and other Côtes du Rhône vintages. Chalets will be serving and selling regional products including charcuterie, oysters, sweets and more. There will be wine quizzes, a photo competition, a "Nez du Vin'' test that pits wine student against the public and of course, a lot of people hanging around sipping and shmoozing. 

The Défilé des Confréries starts at 6:15  pm, with roughly 160 winemakers and other wine-industry folks, parading along Rue de la République to the Place de l’Horloge, where they'll sing the beautiful Provencal song, La Coupo Santo.  Then, everyone heads off to various restaurants where, from 8 pm, special Côtes du Rhône menus are being offered (with a free glass of Côtes du Rhône of course). A list of participating restaurants and a map is here. 

For all the info, go to: millevin.fr. If you don't find what you need there, you can call the Avignon Tourist Office (04 32 74 32 74 ) or Inter-Rhone: 04 90 27 24 00, maison@inter-rhone.com, vins-rhone.com.

Friday, November 14, 2014

Provence Prestige: Nov 20 to 24 in Arles


The 2oth annual Provence Prestige show opens Thursday November 20  at the Palais des Congrès in Arles. This festive holiday-theme market fills a number of vast indoor expo halls with 3500 square meters of holiday goodies, gifts, home decor, food and wine, clothes, accessories, books and much more. And it's all made in Provence by exhibitors who agree to the terms of a special ''locally made'' charter. Some 30,000 visitors and roughly 140 exhibitors are expected.

As in years past there will be Christmas workshops for kids and this year, a carousel in front of the exhibit hall. 

Tickets are 6€ (adults), 3€ (ages 12 to 18 and groups), and free for kids under 12. Tickets for Provence Prestige entitle you to discounted admission at the Musée Départemental de l’Arles Antique (MDAA) and the Musée Réattu but only while Provence Prestige is on. This would be a great chance to see the 50-ton, 31-meter, roughly 2000-year-old Roman barge called Arles Rhone 3 that was pulled from the muddy depths of the Rhone River in 2011 and painstakingly restored. It was put on display in a tailor-built wing of the MDAA last month, along with 450 other artifacts linked to navigation on the Rhone in antiquity.

Provence Prestige show hours are Thursday November 20 to  Monday November 24th, from 10 am to 7 pm, with special late hours (until 11 pm) on Friday November 21. All the info is on the main website here.

Friday, November 7, 2014

Seven New Low-Priced Paris Hotels

Above: The Hilton Paris Opera, opening in January
Hotel Indigo Paris Opera (2)
Villa Saxe Eiffel
The Idol, opening next month
Le Lapin Blanc
Hotel Moliere (2)
citizenM Charles de Gaulle (3)

The big Paris hotel news lately has been the recent opening of the Peninsula and re-opening of the Plaza Athénée, both of them on August 1, 2014. There’s also big buzz about the renovation of the super-luxe Crillon (reopening in late 2015)  and the three-year, €300-million redo of the Ritz (reopening fall/winter 2015). But for those of us who need a more approachable (love that euphemism!) address in the City of Light, here are seven stylish new Paris hotels to consider...all of them new this year or just getting set to open soon. 

*The four-star, 48-room Villa Saxe Eiffel opened in February, in the 7th arrondisement. The goal, the owners say, was to create a soothing atmosphere, with rooms that are “beautiful, simple, and above all, inviting and comfortable.” The minimalist décor is graced by amenities such as linens by Garnier-Thiebaut, Italian lighting, Fragonard bath products and lots of nice tech such as HD TV, iPhone 5 docks, connections for other devices and international satellite TV. There’s a fitness area, with sauna and massage chair, and a restaurant, called La Verriere, open all day. Rates from 165€. villa-saxe-eiffel.com , +33 (0)1 47 83 86 90, hotel@villa-saxe-eiffel.com.

*Le Lapin Blanc opened in June.  It's a boutique hotel in the city center, close to close to the Sorbonne,  the Jardin du Luxembourg and the Latin Quarter.  It has 27 rooms including three suites….and serves breakfast but otherwise has no restaurant. The artist and architect who collaborated on the design chose an Alice in Wonderland theme, with soft colors and whimsical patterns.  Le Lapin Blanc (and the two hotels that follow) all belong to the Châteaux & Hôtels Collection, which celebrates reasonably priced, independently owned hotels with unique personalities. Rates from 150€. hotel-lapin-blanc.fr, +33 (0) 1 53 10 27 77, info@hotel-lapin-blanc.com

*The four-star boutique Hôtel Molière (in the 1st arrondisement) opened in September, not far from the Comedie-Francaise and the Chatelet Theater, within walking distance of the Seine, Place Vendome, Louvre and Opera Garnier. It's an area that was once home to Royal families, now known for culture, entertainment, traditional architecture, haute couture and formal French gardens. The building itself dates to 1840 and, as its name suggests, the decor celebrates the theatrical: look for dramatic red drapes, furniture inspired by the 17th century and more. The 27-room hotel has a wellness center (sauna, steam, fitness) and belongs to the Chateaux & Hotels Collection, like Le  Lapin Blanc just above and the Idol just below. Rates from 250€.  Hotel-moliere.fr, +33 (0)1 42 96 22 01, info@hotel-moliere.fr

*The four-star, 32-room Idol Hotel (in the 8th) will open next month (December). Set on rue d’ Edimbourg, it’s just a (Rolling) stone’s throw from the Garnier Opera on the same street as the Conservatoire Municipal de Paris. It’s an area known for musical instrument makers and instrument shops. Appropriately, this fun, funky hotel celebrates all types of music but especially jazz, soul and funk from the 1960s to the '80s. The website lists upcoming musical festivals and shows, which you can see here.  Opening rates from 195€. idolhotel-paris.com, +33 (0)1 45 22 14 31, contact@idolhotel-paris.com

*The Hotel Indigo Paris Opera--the first Hotel Indigo in France-- opened in September  on a quiet pedestrian street just next to Place de l’Opéra, close to the Louvre and the Tuilleries, Galleries Lafayette and Printemps. The area is best known for its ornate opera house, The Palais Garnier, which inspired Gaston Leroux’s Phantom of the Opera. GM Vincent Poulingue says “We’re right at the heart of the action. Paris is brimming with history and culture, and this neighborhood provides the perfect base for exploring our enchanting city.” Like the other 59 Indigo Hotels around the world, the Indigo Paris Opera is designed to reflect its surroundings; it’s a fully renovated 4-star boutique property, which the company (IHG Hotels) calls “a modern interpretation of the authentic Parisian style.” Among the 57 rooms there are 12 suites and duplex apartments, some overlooking the Eiffel Tower. The hotel restaurant and wine bar, Tartares, has 42 seats, a terrace, and a sommelier who loves to propose perfect food and wine pairings. Rates from 150€. Hotelindigo.com, +33 (0)1 44 80 00 32. Toll free from US:  877 8 INDIGO.

*The Hilton Paris Opera will debut in January, 2015 following a $50-million restoration by designer Fiona Thompson, who also did the Trianon Palace (Versailles), the Four Seasons Anahita (Mauritius) and The Langham (London). Formerly the Concorde Paris Opera, the 268-room hotel (with 29 suites) sits in the heart of the Right Bank, a stone’s throw from the Champs-Elysées, Opéra Square and Rue de la Paix. Many museums are within walking distance. "The hotel will be quite a departure from how most travellers think of 'a Hilton,' a spokesperson told me. "It offers a modern blend of history and glamour, with sleek styling in celebration of the 125-year legacy of this classic Parisian hotel." The design includes a magnificent entrance hall adorned with frescoes, Corinthian colonnades, original balustrades, chandeliers set with crystals and mosaic flooring. There are seven meeting rooms--including one with vintage Baccarat crystal chandeliers--plus a new Executive Lounge and state-of-the art gym. The hotel GM is Sofia Vandaele, who was last at the London Hotel (New York) and, before that, with W Hotels in New York and the Sheraton Belgravia in London. Rates from 299€. parisopera.hilton.com, +33 (0) 1 40 08 44 44. 

And one at the airport…

*The citizenM Charles de Gaulle Airport opened in June, boasting one-minute check in times, XL king beds, wall-to-wall guestroom windows, high-pressure rain showers, free WiFi throughout, free current movies, hair dryers (“and not the dodgy kind!”)…and rooms starting at 79€. Plus, members of the loyalty club get 15% discounts. Its located in the central zone of the airport, ½ hour from central Paris. Instead of a restaurant, the hotel has the CanteenM, a “24/7 food and drink oasis” where you can get sweets, sandwiches, soups, drinks and much more, to eat in or take out. This is the first citizenM in France, and the 7th hotel worldwide for the Dutch-owned brand.  Their first US property opened on Times Square in Manhattan in May, 2014. Future plans include another hotel in New York (on the Bowery, coming in 2016), plus three additional London properties and hotels in Rome, Istanbul, Zurich, Barcelona and more. Booking is online only at: citizenM.com

Note: For more affordable Paris hotels, click here and make sure to see the listings at the end of the story as well.

Thursday, October 30, 2014

Another Fine French Book Giveaway!

Clotilde Dusoulier's new book just came out and knowing her, I'm sure it's wonderful. Since the New York Times just did a big story on it (see that here), I'll skip over the background and just get to the juicy part: Clotilde's publisher wants to give one of you lucky folks a copy. 

Since the book is about French culinary idioms--meaning, phrases such as prendre de la brioche (gaining brioche), entre la poire et le fromage (between pear and cheese) and manger son pain blanc (eating one's white bread)--leave a comment below and in it, tell us your favorite French idiom, phrase, colloquialism or even word. Or, just tell me why you'd love to have this book in your collection...or to give it as a gift. Your comment will be your contest entry and you'll get extra points for creativity! Also please make sure to leave me your email so I can reach you if you win; signing in with your Google account or web URL is not enough. 


To learn more about the book, visit the companion site here; it has excerpts and audio recordings of the expressions. And if you'd like to just go ahead and buy it, you can do that hereBonne Chance!

Tuesday, October 21, 2014

Georgeanne Brennan's New Labor of Love


Georgeanne Brennan's passion for Provence is well documented, most notably in her books A Pig in Provence (Harcourt and Chronicle Books) and The Food and Flavors of Haute Provence (Chronicle Books), the latter of which won a James Beard Foundation award.  (To see all her books, click here.)

Since 1970, Georgeanne has had a home in the Upper Var region of Provence (a few kilometers from Quinson), where, over the years, she has raised goats, made cheese, run a seasonal cooking school and along the way, became something of an expert on sustainable living. When she's not in France, she lives on a small farm in Northern California.

Now Georgeanne is sharing her passion for food, gardening, history and Provence in an online store called La Vie Rustic.  It officially launched last month, selling a range of products “for the kitchen, barnyard, tool-shed, orchard and field."

La Vie Rustic, she says, is designed to appeal to  “the new wave of backyard and urban gardeners, animal husbandmen and women, home cooks, and anyone, anywhere who, like me, wishes to practice a sustainable lifestyle mindfully producing, cooking, and caring for their own food or even just a small part of it.”

The product line will grow as time goes on. So far, her seed collection includes French Heirloom Lettuce and Chicory Seeds in beautiful letterpress packages, a Chicken Scratch Patch and a field of Red Poppies. 

In the cuisine/kitchen section, she offers fresh and dried sweet bay cut from her own trees, Sel de Figues, Sel d'Abricot, a DIY Roulade (French Pancetta) kit and coming soon, a DIY for Jambon Cru.

In the verger/orchard department, you’ll find one-year-old Sultan de Marabout Fig Trees, grown from cuttings from a tree that was a gift to the United States from the Agricultural Commissioner of Algeria during the first decades of the 20th century.

Every product Georgeanne sells she created herself, often from homegrown fruits and herbs.  All of them, she says, were made “in the spirit of Provence.’’ Coming soon are a hand-crafted sickle with a black-walnut handle…and letter-press holiday cards crafted by a master printer on a Heidleberg press.

This type of business hardly new to Georgeanne.  In the 1980s, she founded the pioneering company Le Marche Seeds, which chef Joyce Goldstein wrote about in her book Inside the California Food Revolution.  She was also the designer and packager for Smith & Hawken's vegetable-and flower-seed packet and planter gift line...and she created private custom seed-and-garden products for Gardener's Eden, a now-closed division of Williams-Sonoma.

And now, Georgeanne is thrilled to be back in the world she loves so much: making and marketing high-quality products, in beautifully designed packages, for those who value the thoughtful,  loving-the-land lifestyle that she does.

"La Vie Rustic is heavily infused with my love for and knowledge of Provence and its way of life,” she says. "I want to share wonderful products for all the areas of our world that make for a sustainable life, in the French style.”

For more info about Georgeanne, you can check out her website, sign up for her newsletter, follow her on Twitter, find her on Facebook or send her an email: contact@lavierustic.com

Photos: (1)  Georgeanne's beloved Provence. (2) Apricot salt.  (3) Pretty plums, on the Vie Rustic site. (4) Goat Cheese with Olive Oil and  Georgeanne's Herbes de Provence. (5) The website is filled with photos and tales of life in Provence. "Taken just before we all sat down to eat dinner," she writes, "this photo (by Sara Remington, from the book Paris to Provence by Ethel Brennan), speaks of the essence of the French kitchen." (6)  A Pig in Provence: "In Provence, my neighbors kept rabbits, guinea hens, geese (which attacked me if I got near them), a few chickens and a pig," Georgeanne continues. "The animals were kept in the barnyard area, behind the stone houses, or adjacent to them. The animals’ shelters were built of stone and had red-tiled roofs, just like the homes..."(7) Lettuce Seed Packets: Scarole Cornet de Bordeaux, Scarole Pain de Sucre, Friée Très Fine Maraichère, Chicorée Sauvage de Verone and more. (8) A salad of frisée, haricot vert and toasted walnuts. (9) Poppies in Provence and (10) the seeds to grow your own patch. (11) French Cooking at Home is Georgeanne's video cooking class; for into on that click here.

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